Autumn by the beech

Experiencing the Overland Track, Tas, through an autumnal lens with the Tasmanian Walking Company.

Story Briar Jensen  Photo Tasmanian Walking Co

"The fact it still exists today blows my mind,” says botanist Danah Leary, referring to Tasmania’s Nothofagus gunnii, Australia’s only native winter-deciduous tree, affectionately known as fagus. “From fossilised evidence found in Antarctica, the species really hasn’t changed in 35 million years, which is astounding if you think how much climate has shifted within that time.”

As guest botanist on Tasmanian Walking Company’s annual autumnal-themed trek along the 65km Overland Track, Tassie-born Danah has walked this path about 40 times, but still exudes wonder at the wild, untamed landscape. “It’s an incredibly special place,” she says.

Danah explains that nearly 60% of Tassie’s alpine plants are found nowhere else in the world.

Fagus, a living relic of the ancient supercontinent Gondwana, was once much more widespread, but is now restricted to alpine regions in Tassie’s Central Highlands, at Mount Field National Park, and here in Cradle Mountain–Lake St Clair National Park. When their tiny, pleated leaves morph from green to gold, rust to ruby, they cast a brilliant botanical sunset across mountainsides. Known as the ‘turning of the fagus’ the autumn spectacle attracts Taswegians in a pagan-like pilgrimage.

The Overland Track is regarded as Australia’s premier alpine hike, running south from Cradle Mountain Valley to Lake St Clair through rugged country chiselled by successive ice ages. Officially graded moderate, it’s no walk in the park, with challenging, often exposed terrain, copious climbs and notoriously changeable weather – the previous week’s guests experienced heavy snow. Joining Tasmanian Walking Co takes the stress out of planning and their private huts await at the end of each day with luxuries such as afternoon teas (lemon myrtle scones anyone?), hot showers, drying rooms, book-filled lounges and hearty dinners accompanied by Tassie wines. You only need to carry clothes, wet weather gear, water and lunch – around 10kg maximum. And you can choose to do this nature-focused version of the six-day Cradle Mountain Signature Walk.